Waterslide Decals
In this final installment on finishing your own guitar effects pedals, I demonstrate how to print and apply the waterslide decal to the pedal, and apply a durable clear finish. In previous videos, I showed how to model, drill, and paint the enclosure, and design and prepare the artwork and labels in GIMP.
I use clear waterslide decal paper, and print on my inkjet Canon Pro9000mkII. After printing, and waiting a while to ensure the ink is dry, I spray on a few coats of Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear acrylic to protect the ink during the soak. Then, after the clearcoat dries for 30 minutes or so, I trim the paper to final dimensions and soak the paper in warm water. When the decal starts to move freely from its backing, I wet the surface of the enclosure and slide the decal directly onto it. I iron out the bubbles with wet fingers, and adjust the decal into its final position, being careful not to stretch the decal.
After drying for a few hours, I use a sharp razor to cut out the holes for the pots, switches, etc. Then, I apply 4 clear top-coats of polyacrylic to protect the finish, waiting a few hours between each coat.
I like water-based polyacrylic because it’s very easy to use and clean up, and is low-odor so it can be applied indoors. This stuff looks a bit milky when wet, but dries clear. You may also see some tiny bubbles in the wet finish, but these disappear while drying and the finish self-levels well. I find a foam brush to be easiest and very inexpensive- make sure your foam is reasonably dense – the very porous ones are harder to work with.
While the polyacrylic is wet and curing, I cover the project with a mixing bowl to prevent dust from settling in the finish – propping up an edge of the bowl to allow oxygen to circulate. After every coat but the final one, I do a light sanding with 400-grit wet/dry paper, to provide some tooth for the next coat. If you get finish pooling at the bottom edges, you can sand it down with a sanding sponge. After the last coat, as a final optional step, I buff on a coat of paste wax for extra shine and durability.
As a side note, this video took a lot longer to complete than I had planned – I wasn’t happy with my first version of the video, so I started over from scratch. And in the process, I finally started to pay more attention to my lighting and backgrounds, and I started using my DSLR for video instead of my camcorder. I’ll write more about that in another post.
Here are some of the resources shown in this video:
- Clear inkjet waterslide decal paper
- Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic Spray – Satin
- Carl Professional Rotary Trimmer
- Canon Pro9000 Mark II Inkjet Photo Printer
- General Finishes PolyAcrylic Water Based Top Coat – Satin
- Razor Blade
- Norton Very Fine Sanding Sponge
- 400 grit wet/dry sand paper
- Foam brush
- Minwax Paste Wax
- Stainless Steel Mixing Bowl or other suitable dust cover
- Jenga!
GREAT DUDE!
Very helpful, thank you!
You are the best.
great videos man! Where do you buy decal paper?
Thanks! Follow the link below the video to go to my blog. I included links to all the resources I used in the video. The papers are from Bel and Papilio and you can get them at Amazon, etc.
Thanks a lot for this video John! I’ve been looking all along for a method of applying top coat over decal effectively. After watching I immediately try it out myself and the result is just like I need. Great stuff!
Great to hear! Thanks Henry.
John
this was a great series. it inspired me to create my own pedal i’m not gonna do the artwork part but yours looks professional. an electronics series would be awesome.
You should demo the pedal so we can hear it too!
So much to do, so little time
I built this one pretty much stock, using the MORC PCB from guitarpcb. It’s a great sounding compressor.
John, Always enjoy your videos. Especially the ones on the epiphone electronics. Anyway, I have just completed a guitar, for my grandson. A Strat style with an H-S-H configuration. I’ve used all american made electronices and need only to find a pickguard that will support the pickups and a decal for the headstock…think this would work on the headstock. I see where a guy on ebay is making them; but, I have a feeling he is using the same process as you do, here. I was thinking of applying the toned laquer, apply the decal and then shoot a final coat of clear over the decal. Your thoughts?
Also, along the lines of the Epi. I have a 1999 Dot, natural finish that is immaculate and I love it. However, it seems that the tone controls, the top one has a tremendous affect on the volume….in other words, turning the tone pot is like turning the volume up…It’s not that way on the 2nd tone pot and I was wondering if there is a chance it was improperly wired; or, since it was built in Korea, that the electronics might be less than they should be? Again, your thoughts? Many thanks for your dedication and willingness to help “the rest of us”.
Hi Jim,
Yes, you can definitely use waterslide decals for the headstock, and on the body, etc.
As for the dot tone control, it definitely sounds like there’s a wiring issue there. Was it always that way? Could be a short, or just a incorrectly wired circuit. Unfortunately, you’ll have to get in there and take out the electronics, which is never much fun on a semi hollowbody
Good luck!
John
John,
Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. I, at 64, am quite “conflicted”, when it comes to what I like in my guitars. Here is a list of my gear: 1990 G & L ASAT, 1988 G & L Invader, 1999 G & L Comanche, 2005 G & L 25th Anniversary, 2007 Gibson SG, 1999 Epiphone Dot, 2008 Gretsch 5120 w/ GFS P/Us, 2002 Peavey EVH Wolfenstein, 2005 Reverend Jetstream 390, 2011 Eastwood Wandre Deluxe, 2011 Eastwood Messenger, 1999 Alvarez 5052 Bluesman, 2012 Alvarez A/E, 2006 Cordoba C-5 Classical, 2001 Silvertone SG, 1 SG and a tele that I build myself, 2009 Baby Taylor, Oops! Out of room. More later. Jim
Ok.here’s the rest of it..1990 Fender JP-90 Bass, 2004 Carvin B-4 Bass, Peavey 112 Valve King tube Amp, Fender Mustang head w/ 4x 12 cab, 2012 Peavey VYPYR 40 solid state amp, Roland Micro Cube RX and a practice amp that I can’t remember the name of.
There were nine more guitars and three more amps, but someone broke into my house 2 1/2 years ago and got 9 them.
Anyway, with all this, I can’t seem to make myself happy and still “tinker”. I’ve got two strat style, a jazzmaster and a tele style bodies and matching necks, with the electronics to build more.
Yes, I know, I’m not getting any younger and I should be looking at unloading some of my gear, instead of acquiring more; but, I caught the bug, later in life, and am still fired up!! I just love my gutiars. Wish the amount of gear relected my playing skill!! I’d be great! Right now, I play with a small gospel group, “Just Ole’ Folks” and that’s enough for me. Enjoy our help and comments. Jim
Wow, that’s quite a list of gear, Jim
I understand that feeling- I just love guitars- and I have to refrain from buying more. I know I certainly don’t “need” any more guitars, but I’m often tempted. I also “know” that I should be spending my time playing and improving my technique, rather then tweaking and seeking a holy grail of tone- but again I am often tempted. It’s tricky, but I think there can be a healthy balance. Nothing wrong with being a collector, or a tweaker- as long as you’re also a player! I’m playing in a couple cover bands now, and have never had so much fun playing. That’s what it’s all about 
John
Hello John,
Thanks for these videos, they are realy informative and very detailed. Good stuff!
I’ve been building quite a few pedals in the last 1,5 years but right now they are all plain aluminium with text written over them and some different color knobs.
As a first experiment I’m thinking of just doing the sanding, no primer or paint, a non-transparent waterslide and the clearcoat. That should work, right?
Absolutely. Go for it!
John
I have a fender rumble 75 which needs a footswitch to activate the overdrive away from the amp, any ideas on how i could go about making one circuit wise?
Easy. Get a DPDT footswitch, mono 1/4″ jack, and a small enclosure (try pedalpartsplus, mammoth, etc). Fender typically provides a small voltage on their footswitch outputs, so you can add an LED too if you want.
Search for “Rumble 75 schematic”, and you’ll find the schematic for the external switch right there.
Cheers
Great video man
i’m currently working with a pedal, and im wondering wheter it’s necessary to paint the enclosure in order to make the decal stick to the surface, or if it works with just the aluminium surface? Thanks!
You can indeed apply the waterslide decal directly to the aluminum. Just make sure the surface is sanded and smooth first.
Thanks!
Excellent video!
Hi there, great video man, very helpful!! Where can i find waterslide?
Follow the link under the video to my blog, where I have some links for waterslide paper, etc.
THIS IS THE MOST DETAILED AND AMAZING TUTORIAL ON U TUBE!!!!! YOU ROCK!!!
Great video, hands full of information! I will definitely use waterslide from now on. You can see on my channel how my effects looked when I made them with transferring decals
Your pedals look great!
Great tutorial, and nice designs, but, what solutions to decals over black cases/finishes???
Clear decal + inkjet is not a very good fit for dark-background pedals. You might get reasonable results with yellow ink- but it will probably be too dark. You could try an entirely different approach, like making a stencil and using white spraypaint. Or if you have cool handwriting + artistic skills you could use a metallic silver sharpie, or you could hand paint with acrylics, etc.
Just to add to John’s response. You can get decal paper that has a white background but you have to cut it out very carefully since you’ll be able to see the trim line plain as day. That’s about the only way you can use these on a black finish. You can however print a black border around it to help mask it, but it may not match the black on your case/finish
Great electrical design combined with great graphics design.. well done
That Speed Racer design was so cool; shame it had to get trashed.
Great instruction
What did you do with an enclosure that got messed up from a bad decal?
Unfortunately, sand it off and start over.
Awesome job! I found your video very helpful. What would be the best way to seal a waterside decal on glass?