Tuesday, October 9th, 2012 at
5:03 pm

[Update 10/11/2012: What a relief! All my old YouTube comments appear to have been restored successfully. Thanks to the YouTube team for correcting the situation so promptly.]
[Update 10/10/2012: Some news: I received an email from the youtube team saying "A small number of YouTube users may have had their comments deleted as a result of an error on our part". They sent a link to a reinstatement form, which I submitted, and I now wait with fingers crossed for a speedy and successful recovery. Here’s a link to that form, if you feel you’ve also been affected by this issue!]
Today I noticed something completely depressing! I was looking back at some older comments on one of my videos and I noticed that none of my comments were there. When I clicked on someone’s reply to one of my comments “in reply to John Cooper (Show the comment)”, it popped up a dialog saying “The comment no longer exists”.
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Friday, September 28th, 2012 at
4:36 pm
In previous posts, we modeled the enclosure in Sketchup, drilled it, and now we’re ready for paint and artwork. In this video, I talk about options for finishing the enclosure, and choices for art and labels. Then I demonstrate surface prep, priming and painting, in preparation for the waterslide decals.
Some of the resources shown in this video:
- P-touch labeler from Brother
- Adhesive backed window inkjet decal from Papilio, etc
- Bel inkjet waterslide decal paper. Also available from Papilio, etc
- Moollon etched pedals
- Z-VEX handpainted pedals
- Powder coated enclosures available from Pedal Parts Plus, Mammoth Electronics, etc
- Norton 150-grit multipurpose sandpaper
- Norton synthetic steel wool pads
- Mineral spirits or naptha. Please observe all safety measures- eye protection, gloves, ventilation, etc.
- Painter’s pyramids
- Krylon indoor/outdoor primer white
- Krylon indoor/outdoor paint ivory satin
- 125b, 1590a, 1590b, 1590bb diecast aluminum enclosures available from Pedal Parts Plus, Mammoth Electronics, etc
Friday, September 7th, 2012 at
7:15 pm
Now that we’ve modeled the enclosure and printed a drilling template, we’re ready to jump out of Sketchup and into the real world.
In this video, I’ll be demonstrating how to accurately drill the holes in a diecast aluminum 125B guitar pedal enclosure, preparing to install the electronics. I’m using the drilling template we printed in part 2. The pedal I’m building is a modified Ross compressor, using a printed circuit board purchased from GuitarPCB.
Funny, I just noticed while reviewing the final video edit that I was saying “barrel” instead of “bezel” for the LED bezel. I guess I was channeling my inner Cooper.
Some of the resources used in this video:
Monday, September 3rd, 2012 at
10:12 pm
Dead air. Not good! As I was nearing completion of my epically long video for part 2 in my guitar pedal building series, one of the big items left on my to-do list was to find some appropriate thematic music for the section interludes. Each of the 5 tutorial sections has a table of contents image that sits on the screen for about 16 seconds. At that point in the project, each of these brief interludes was dead-silent.
I had this vague idea that I would compose some short piece of music, and then make five increasingly complex variations to play for each of the five increasingly advanced sections of the tutorial. 16 seconds is not very long- not long enough for a big composition, but maybe long enough for a short melody. This idea lurked in the back of my mind for a few weeks. A couple of aborted attempts just didn’t seem to fit the tone of the video- too perky, too funky, etc.
Inspiration arrived, as it sometimes does, with a new piece of gear. So with brand new Les Paul in hand, and Jamman Delay looper and Vox Ice 9 under foot, I recorded the following series of melodies. Each loop starts with a copy of a previous variation, and adds a little something.
I’m particularly fond of that last clip, even though it ended up on the cutting room floor. It’s got this crazy riff in it – which may be just a little too complex. 
Friday, August 31st, 2012 at
11:10 pm
This is part 2 of my new series on building guitar effects pedals.
This part of the project ended up being far more grandiose than I originally intended. I started out planning to just show how to model this diecast aluminum 125B guitar pedal enclosure, to make sure my PCB and components would fit properly inside. But by the time I was done with it, it was essentially a complete beginner’s how-to course for Google Sketchup. (Note, Sketchup is now part of Trimble instead of Google).
To give you an idea of how long this took for me to complete, I started filming the intro and the Sketchup tutorial videos in June of 2011. Over the last year, in the time-spaces between the rest of life, I’ve been gradually editing, revising, extending, and composing music for the project.
In this tutorial, I start out with the absolute basics, and gradually pick up the pace, progressing to more and more advanced topics. I divided the video up into 5 sections, but kept them all together in one 55-minute video. In my previous multi-part videos, I had to split them into multiple YouTube clips, due to the YouTube length restrictions, but now that they’ve relaxed those for my account- I hope it’ll be better having it all in one video.
Here is the Sketchup file that I used in the tutorial if you’re interested: Download sketchup file.
Each section assumes a familiarity with the previous section topics. Here’s the table of contents:
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Friday, August 31st, 2012 at
8:25 pm
This is the first post in a series on building guitar effects pedals. It’s going to be a bit out of order- I’ll be starting with what is usually considered the finishing touches- putting the pedal in an enclosure, modeling and laying out an enclosure in Google/Trimble Sketchup, drilling the enclosure, painting and finishing it.
Then hopefully later, I’ll go back and do a project showing how to build a simple boost pedal from scratch.
This first video is the motivational intro: here are some of the things I’ve done, and yes, you can too! If you have some interest in electronics and guitars, what better way to improve your knowledge? You can get started with little or no electronics experience, and you’ll learn a bunch along the way.
In part 2, I give a full beginner’s course in Google Sketchup.
Here are some useful links for pedal building:
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Thursday, August 16th, 2012 at
9:17 am
In addition to my usual guitar studies and projects, I’ve been working on some other projects over the summer. I thought I’d share some details of what’s been keeping me busy.
At the beginning of June, Chunling hinted that she’d like something to go between these two Tristania Laurina trees along our fence – perhaps a nice shady place to sit.
One morning, she pointed out a design she liked from Sunset magazine:



Chunling’s birthday was approaching, and this looked like a nice small-ish woodworking project that I could kick out relatively quickly, so I decided to go for it. Most woodworking projects I undertake are more the indoor-fine-furniture variety, which take me months to painstakingly prepare and execute. Now, here’s an outdoor project, where it’s gonna get all beat up by the elements anyway, so there’s less pressure for perfection. I figured I could get it done in a weekend. The reality was more like two and a half weekends, but still, that’s better than months
I bought the redwood at Home Depot. It was hard to find perfect pieces- a lot of it was pretty rough. Also some boards were much greener/wetter than others. A few of those 4x4x8’s weighed a ton, and literally spit up water when being cut on the table saw.


First job was to prepare the four posts for assembly. After several crosscut passes on the table saw, I cleaned out the slots with a chisel:
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Friday, July 20th, 2012 at
6:24 pm
The factory setup on my new Epiphone Les Paul Tribute Plus definitely needs some work. Fortunately, it’s not quite as bad as my Riviera’s original factory setup. Thank you inspector #22 in the USA
For these measurements, I’m using a capo set of feeler gauges like this set from Grizzly.
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Here’s what it looked like, right out of the box:
- the open action at the 17th fret was .101” on the high E and .083” on the low E.
- the nut seems to be cut just about right. With a capo on the 3rd fret and measuring at the 1st fret, it’s about .002” on the high E and .006” on the low E. Or measured open at the first fret, it’s .015” on the high E and .028” on the low E
- the truss rod was was .011” at the 7th fret, with capo on 1st and finger on 22nd.
- the intonation was completely whacked.
- The pickup heights were carelessly set. The neck pickup was angled to be too high close to the strings on the low side and too low on the high side, resulting in a boomy unbalanced sound.
- The pickup pole pieces were haphazardly adjusted.
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So how does Gibson set up its Les Pauls at the factory? In a post to the Gibson Talk forums, Davomite, the final inspector at Gibson Memphis posted the following factory setup notes (I added the purple decimal inch values in parentheses):
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Wednesday, July 11th, 2012 at
4:10 pm





My new Epi Les Paul Tribute Plus arrived yesterday for my birthday, and it’s a beauty! These things are hard to find- none of the local stores have inventory, and every online retailer is backordered. I managed to get Guitar Center’s last one in the country(!) – from the store in Tonawanda, New York. The store manager there was great- sent me some pics, played it for me to confirm it was all good, gave me a great July 4th discount, and shipped it over for free. Thanks Chip!
Cosmetically, it’s really nice. Clean, well-defined flamed maple top and cream bindings. The cherryburst finish looks near-perfect- with rich warm coloring- not the bright overexposed yellow in the pictures at Guitar Center’s website. The Grover locking tuners feel fantastically smooth, and the switch, knobs and jack all seem good. And after some quick adjustments, it plays pretty well (but still needs some fine tuning).
The ’57 Classic pickups sound really dynamic, rich and beautiful – they’re warm when played gently, and crank when spanked. Love em. There’s quite a range of sounds with the push/pull series/parallel switching on the tone knobs. When a tone knob is pulled, the humbucker’s two coils are wired in parallel giving a lighter, brighter, thinner sound, somewhat reminiscent of a single coil (though different). It’s completely different from the ultra-thick and heavy series-humbucker sound (knob pushed in). This is a really versatile setup: a total of 8 different sounds using the 3 switches, not to mention the variations you can get by adjusting the volume knobs in the middle switch position.
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Thursday, June 28th, 2012 at
9:03 am
A couple months ago, I had an unexpected revelation. An eye-opening, earth-shaking, revolutionary enlightenment. Ok, maybe I’m exaggerating and obsessing, but it was an honest-to-goodness WTF!
I was at a local music shop (ok, I admit it was Best Buy), and out of curiosity, I picked up an absurdly expensive Gibson Les Paul Traditional from the wall-o-guitars, plugged it into a Vox Night Train, and gave it a spin. I’ve never really given the Les Paul guitars much attention. Despite their iconic status and near ubiquity, I’ve always thought the Les Paul was just too heavy to consider. But…
I was shocked! This guitar had so much sustain, it felt like there must be an active sustainer circuit in there. But no- just passive ‘57 Classic humbuckers, a Nashville Tune-o-matic, and a whole bunch of mahogany and maple. I was stunned. I always thought my G&L ASAT III with its Saddle-Lock bridge and my Vox SSC-55 with its MaxConnect bridge both had reasonably good sustain, but this was in a whole ‘nother league. It actually felt like a different breed of instrument, one that may even require a different playing style to accommodate and leverage such an impressive sustain. And those 57 Classics sounded fantastic!
So, ok, I walked out of there telling Chunling “Wow- that was mind-blowing. But $2400, forget about it!!” I convinced myself to let it go, and stopped thinking about it. Until…
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